Planting bareroot daylilies. Our plants are washed, trimmed and shipped bareroot. While they survive shipping very well, don’t be surprised if they appear tired and haggard when you get them. Soak them in water for an hour or two or even overnight before planting out. If you can’t plant them right away they can be potted up with regular garden or potting soil. Keep them out of direct sunlight and well watered until you are ready to plant out.  <back>

 Descriptions. While we guarantee that the daylilies we ship you will be true to name.  How they perform in your garden will depend on many any factors including your cultural practices, weather, amount of sunlight or shade, micro climates in the garden, etc.

Daylilies are not very demanding. They will put on a good show under less than ideal conditions. But there are a few things that we’ve found are key to a spectacular show. 

• Initial soil preparation – any good garden book will tell you how.
• Mulch, mulch, mulch to conserve moisture and keep weeds at bay
• Two light feedings (when scapes first appear; and after bloom)
• Six+ hours of sunlight <back>

Bloom Season.  Our descriptions are based on registration information supplied by hybridizers. The season codes (E for early, M for mid-season and L for late) give a general sense for when the bloom season begins, but the codes are usually based on where the hybridizer created the plant.  Many of them live in the south, so, E (early) may be late April in Florida , but late May here in Virginia.  We’ve also learned from experience that micro-climates and other conditions in different parts of the garden will influence bloom seasons. Thus, some cultivars that are listed as M (mid season) or even L (late) will in  some years bloom before cultivars with earlier listings, depending on where they are in the garden.   <back>

Bloom Periods. Each daylily fan sends up one or more scapes each season.  Flower buds form on each scape and bloom at different times.  The number of buds on each scape varies by cultivar  and because of other factors.  Additional rametes or fans are created each year, forming a clump,  thus resulting in more scapes and flowers the next year. Thus the length and fullness of the bloom period for a particular daylily will largely be a function of the number of scapes and the number of buds on each scape.  Look for cultivars with average bud counts of 20 or more per scape to get a full bloom period of 4-6 weeks or more. This can be lower if the clump is a rapid multiplier or consistently re-blooms. For example, Happy Returns has relatively low bud counts, but it multiplies quickly and sends up additional scapes in a single season resulting in a very long bloom period. If you have questions about how particular cultivars perform, please contact us and we will be happy to share our experiences and recommendations with you. <back>

Rebloomers. We’ve found over the years that there is great variation in the consistency with which “re-bloomers” actually re-bloom. There are some things you can do to increase the chances that your re-bloomers will re-bloom.  First, is to keep the plants vigorous.  A second light feeding after the first bloom helps.  Second, is to remove any seed pods as they start to form. That way the plant’s energy is going into more growth rather than making seed.  <back>

Insects and diseases. Daylilies have remarkably few problems with insects or diseases. Most insect problems are minor and can be controlled easily with insecticidal soaps or a general purpose rose spray. Conditions such as leaf streak and daylily rust must be controlled through the regular application and rotation of general garden fungicides. Rainswood Gardens is state inspected each year for pests and diseases.  <back>

 Sunlight. Daylilies need at least 6 hours of sunlight. Full sunlight is best. However some darker daylilies, especially scarlet reds tend to fade early on sunny hot days. Some lighter ones (for me it’s Brocaded Gown) have a tendency to “melt” on those scorching days. The trick is to find a spot that gets good early sun and some light shade in the afternoon, but that also is not competing with tree roots.  I haven’t found that spot in my gardens yet!  <back>

Dividing daylilies. A general rule of thumb is to divide about every 5 years or when the clump begins to lose its blooming vigor. Usually the clump will have 20 or so fans at this point.  We usually divide in spring or early fall, but it seems like almost any time will work. Clumps can be divided with a spade, an old kitchen knife, or simply pulled apart with your hands. If you divide in the fall do so with ample time to allow the plant to establish before the ground freezes. This, and heavy mulch, will prevent heaving due to freezing and thawing.  <back>